NGO accuses Zara and H&M of being ‘linked’ to illegal deforestation activities in Brazil

Two major European brands are making a bad move, according to a British NGO. Earthsight accuses in a report H&M And Zara to be “linked” to large-scale illegal deforestation activities in Brazil, land grabbing, corruption and violence on cotton plantations owned by their subcontractors. Using satellite images, court rulings, product shipping records and undercover investigations, Earthsight compiled and analyzed data published Thursday in a report: “Fashion Crimes: European Fashion Giants linked to dirty cotton from Brazil.

The NGO says it has traced the journey of 816,000 tonnes of cotton from two of Brazil’s largest agroindustrial companies – SLC Agrícola and the Horita group – in western Bahia state. The Brazilian families who own these farms have “a heavy history of legal proceedings, convictions for corruption and millions of dollars in fines for illegal deforestation”, denounces the NGO. They carry out their activities in part of the Cerrado region, a savannah renowned for the richness of its fauna and flora.

These tonnes of cotton then landed in eight textile factories in Asia where, among others, the two fast fashion giants, the Spanish Zara and the Swedish H&M, obtain their supplies. All of this cotton was certified as “sustainable” by the non-profit organization Better Cotton (BC), according to Earthsight. “To ensure the cotton is ethically sourced, both companies rely on cotton supplied by farmers certified by Better Cotton, the world’s best-known sustainable cotton certification system” but which has “ deep gaps,” laments Earthsight.

Duty of vigilance

The Better Cotton label told Earthsight that it “entrusted an independent auditor to carry out enhanced verification visits” following the NGO’s report. “We take very seriously the accusations against Better Cotton, which strictly prohibits in its specifications practices such as land usurpation and deforestation », Reacted Inditex (parent company of Zara) to AFP. Inditex is requesting the results of the independent investigation “as quickly as possible”.

“The findings of the Earthsight report are very concerning and we take them very seriously,” H&M told AFP. The group highlighted “having been one of the first to move to 100% organic, recycled or sustainably sourced cotton” and “following the findings of the investigation” in “close” dialogue with Better Cotton.

In mid-March, the member states of the European Council validated legislation creating a “duty of vigilance” imposing obligations on EU companies to protect the environment and human rights in their global production chains.